A/C drips to the interior have been discussed before, but I need some clarification as well as offer some insights.
1) A/C drips during high ambient humidity situations, as previously discussed, can occur from interior drain trough and hose leaks, as we all know. I had previously sealed and inspected the drain components and had no issue all summer this year and last. I returned from a trip on Sunday and set the A/C on 73* as a thorough interior cleaning was needed. It was in the 80s and very humid. As expected, the A/C (on auto) was running on high for several hours. I noted a drip from the street side filter intake vent, as I had seen in the past. There was no evidence of any leak in the drain system, but the metal u channel which clamps the A/C unit to the roof had water in it. I noticed that it was VERY cold. I have my cold air plenum well sealed with aluminum duct tape, so I know there are no cold air leaks to the intake side of the system. Is it possible that, through conduction, that the u channel gets so cold that these drips are from condensation of very humid intake air? After interior humidity lowers below the low 50s%, I get no more water in this area.
2) As a part of the cleanup, I had to clean the carpets yesterday. Weather had cooled to the 50s last night, but still very humid. And of course after cleaning the carpets the interior humidity was very high. So I set the heat pump to 75* and ran a fan on the floor. This morning, I had a water drip from between the roof and the outside pan under the A/C. I got on a ladder and noted a lot of water around the perimeter of the pan. Drain holes are fully open, as verified with a coat hanger exploration of the holes.
Check me here....during heat pump operation the outside condenser (now the evaporator during HP use) drains into the pan and out the holes at the bottom, right?
I know this means that I need to replace the seal between the roof and the pan, but that's not in the cards right now, due to a bunch of time constraints.
Is it OK, and effective, to run a clean bead of polyurethane sealer around the perimeter of the pan as an intermediate time fix? Of course, being careful not to plug the drain holes. I understand that if a crack has developed in the pan, that I still may have the leak after sealing the perimeter.
Interestingly, I've had no rain leak here?????
1) A/C drips during high ambient humidity situations, as previously discussed, can occur from interior drain trough and hose leaks, as we all know. I had previously sealed and inspected the drain components and had no issue all summer this year and last. I returned from a trip on Sunday and set the A/C on 73* as a thorough interior cleaning was needed. It was in the 80s and very humid. As expected, the A/C (on auto) was running on high for several hours. I noted a drip from the street side filter intake vent, as I had seen in the past. There was no evidence of any leak in the drain system, but the metal u channel which clamps the A/C unit to the roof had water in it. I noticed that it was VERY cold. I have my cold air plenum well sealed with aluminum duct tape, so I know there are no cold air leaks to the intake side of the system. Is it possible that, through conduction, that the u channel gets so cold that these drips are from condensation of very humid intake air? After interior humidity lowers below the low 50s%, I get no more water in this area.
2) As a part of the cleanup, I had to clean the carpets yesterday. Weather had cooled to the 50s last night, but still very humid. And of course after cleaning the carpets the interior humidity was very high. So I set the heat pump to 75* and ran a fan on the floor. This morning, I had a water drip from between the roof and the outside pan under the A/C. I got on a ladder and noted a lot of water around the perimeter of the pan. Drain holes are fully open, as verified with a coat hanger exploration of the holes.
Check me here....during heat pump operation the outside condenser (now the evaporator during HP use) drains into the pan and out the holes at the bottom, right?
I know this means that I need to replace the seal between the roof and the pan, but that's not in the cards right now, due to a bunch of time constraints.
Is it OK, and effective, to run a clean bead of polyurethane sealer around the perimeter of the pan as an intermediate time fix? Of course, being careful not to plug the drain holes. I understand that if a crack has developed in the pan, that I still may have the leak after sealing the perimeter.
Interestingly, I've had no rain leak here?????
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