Hi - Does anyone have experience with the LED tail light conversion kits?
I have converted the tail lights on my '72 Trade Wind using one of the available kits that includes white reverse lights and red turn/stop/running lights. I also replaced the original power leads (pigtail) inside the original socket (2 black wires) terminating in 2 separate contacts inside the socket on a spring-loaded plate.
The turn/stop LED light has white and red wires coming off the back, terminating inside a plug with 2 contacts on the bottom of the base...one for turn/stop light and one for running light.
I have made sure the power pigtail is inserted correctly, with the tab inserted into the slot on the side of the original socket. I also made sure that the new LED light plug is inserted correctly, and that the contacts on the bottom of the LED plug are lining up with the power lead contacts.
Problem: When I apply power from the R/L turn/stop connection on the 7-pin (hooked up to my TV/umbilical with ignition on or started) to the black wire corresponding to the turn/stop side of the LED plug, I get turn/hazard/brake, but no running light.
Today, I tried connecting a separate power feed from my running light circuit to the black wire corresponding to the running light side of the LED plug. Upon testing, I got a running light and signal/hazard, but no brake. And, the signal for turn/hazard fed back through my running light circuit, causing the LED running lights on the sides/front/back of the AS to flash.
Question: With these kits, is the ground achieved through the physical connection of the socket to the light housing/body? Will I achieve the desired result by running a separate power feed from the running light circuit on the 7-pin to the corresponding black wire. Or will the whole thing blow up if I apply power to both connections on the light??:blink:
Thanks for your help!!
Happy Streaming!
A '72 Trade Wind Named "Mad Men"
I have converted the tail lights on my '72 Trade Wind using one of the available kits that includes white reverse lights and red turn/stop/running lights. I also replaced the original power leads (pigtail) inside the original socket (2 black wires) terminating in 2 separate contacts inside the socket on a spring-loaded plate.
The turn/stop LED light has white and red wires coming off the back, terminating inside a plug with 2 contacts on the bottom of the base...one for turn/stop light and one for running light.
I have made sure the power pigtail is inserted correctly, with the tab inserted into the slot on the side of the original socket. I also made sure that the new LED light plug is inserted correctly, and that the contacts on the bottom of the LED plug are lining up with the power lead contacts.
Problem: When I apply power from the R/L turn/stop connection on the 7-pin (hooked up to my TV/umbilical with ignition on or started) to the black wire corresponding to the turn/stop side of the LED plug, I get turn/hazard/brake, but no running light.
Today, I tried connecting a separate power feed from my running light circuit to the black wire corresponding to the running light side of the LED plug. Upon testing, I got a running light and signal/hazard, but no brake. And, the signal for turn/hazard fed back through my running light circuit, causing the LED running lights on the sides/front/back of the AS to flash.
Question: With these kits, is the ground achieved through the physical connection of the socket to the light housing/body? Will I achieve the desired result by running a separate power feed from the running light circuit on the 7-pin to the corresponding black wire. Or will the whole thing blow up if I apply power to both connections on the light??:blink:
Thanks for your help!!
Happy Streaming!
A '72 Trade Wind Named "Mad Men"
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