I need to replace some of the screen and the seal material around the window in my AS. Is this something I can get at Home Depot or Lowes? Or do I need to get it from an RV supplier?
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First-time 27FB owner in Houston
I picked up our new 27FB Twin from Foley in Gulfport, MS last week. Here I am taking a break between Baton Rouge and Lafayette:
(I always wanted to see where that exit in the middle of that 30 mile long bridge went.)
This is our first travel trailer and we plan to take a couple of practice trips before going to Yellowstone in August. Our daughter is a freshman at UT Austin and chose the destination, so we get to spend some extra time with her!
(I always wanted to see where that exit in the middle of that 30 mile long bridge went.)
This is our first travel trailer and we plan to take a couple of practice trips before going to Yellowstone in August. Our daughter is a freshman at UT Austin and chose the destination, so we get to spend some extra time with her!
2005 Airstream Safari 25 - Alabama
Title: 2005 Airstream Safari 25 - Alabama
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Never cooked in. Excellent condition . New tires. New refrigerator. Twin beds
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1bxUAGk
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Never cooked in. Excellent condition . New tires. New refrigerator. Twin beds
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1bxUAGk
Solar, Inverter and Battery upgrades
I recently completed some some upgrades the the house electrical system on my 2012 EXT. The main issue that I was trying to address was a lack of battery power after minimal use and after storage indoors (unplugged) for 30 days or so.
Via this forum and a few people who were generous with their advice and patience, I was able to complete the effort in 2 stages.
The first stage was to replace the original house batteries with LifeLine batteries. I bought 2 GPL-4CT 6 Volt batteries from Mark @ Centex (512.308.9002 Official Lifeline and Sun Xtender Battery Dealer Distributor). They provide me with 220 amp hours of power; about a 30% increase over my original batteries if I recall correctly. I was hoping to go with the larger 6CTs, but there is no way they would fit in my battery box. I basically had the shoehorn the 4CTs in. Mark provided great support and helped me gain a good understanding of battery life and recharging and helped me get all of my inverter and solar charger settings correct.
For the the second phase of the upgrade, I installed a 1000 watt Magnum inverter, 3 100 watt solar panels and the solar charger/remote to go along with them. The Magnum inverter was model MMS1012. The solar charger and remote were Blue Sky models. The Solar Controller is a Solar Boost 2512i(X)-HV along with an IPN ProRemote. I purchased everything from Dave at AM Solar. Welcome to AM Solar_Your RV Solar Specialists since 1987. (541) 726-1091. AM Solar sells the panels with an option to get them as a kit. The kit contains all of the parts you need to install the panels and controllers (wiring, heat shrink, mounting hardware, etc), along with detailed instructions. You just need to figure out where to mount everything and how/where to run all of the wiring. Dave and AM Solar team were very helpful when I called in a few times to ask for assistance. I have to say that when I received the shipments from them I was a bit overwhelmed at first; there were lots of parts and lots of wire. My total cost for all of the parts was $3461.
The most helpful of all with Lewster from this forum (Lew Farber). Talking things thru with him beforehand gave me the confidence that I could tackle this upgrade. A call or two during the install helped keep me on track.
I just returned from a quick trip and could not be more happy. We had the refrigerator on, watched a movie at night and had the furnace on as well as some lights. My battery was at 84% in the AM, much better than my previous batteries that would have been somewhere around 50%. Even better tho was that they were 100% charged with a few hours of morning sun. During the day now, I can run the inverter, the refrigerator and my communication amps (Internet and cell phone) and still sit at 100% power when it is sunny (which is most of the time in California)
The Phase 1 battery exchange took a solid day to do.
The Phase 2 inverter and solar upgrades took me just shy of 5 days.
I could of shaved off a day if it weren't for the battery box and TV antenna. The battery box is wedged in tight between the lounge framework and side of the van. It took a long time to get wires disconnected/reconnected there, as well as working around that area to run new wires. If doing it over, I would eliminate the battery box (and go with the larger battery size). The TV antenna was securely mounted and I fought its removal for awhile before I went commando on it and destructively removed it. What ever Airstream uses for sealant is very durable...
It also took a bit of time to figure out my existing wiring. I had a factory installed solar system (50 watt) that had to be removed. I had wiring that went to the Battery Isolation Manager that wasn't supposed to be there and I was leery about taking it away, as the new system does not hook up to it (not directly at least).
Running all the wiring is tedious, but not too bad. The worse area was getting the wiring in from the roof penetration and fished behind to the 'control center' in the upper bulkhead.
Lessons Learned and General Thoughts
- Patience is a virtue; especially when trying to fish all of the wires thru the various areas
- Have a box of band aids available. Every finger, as well as the back of both of my hands, bled at some point during the install. There are sharp corners, wires, etc in all of those blind spots where you are poking your hands and fishing wiring
- A saying we have at work is very applicable here. 'Plan the work and work the plan'. In other words, think thru the work that you are going to doing and line up everything that you need to perform it (tools, ladder, drawings parts, etc). Then do the work that you had planned. I'm a little OCD and would sometimes get distracted by other things that I found would need addressed
- Safety. It goes without saying that there are some 'dangers' involved. The AC/DC voltages and amps are sufficient to mess you up a bit, as well as do some damage to your rigs components. Make sure you disconnect everything and ensure nothing is energized prior to sticking a wreck on the electrical connections. Roof access isn't bad, but respect the height. It's tight up on the roof now with 3 panels, AC, vents, etc. Don't do foolish things to get on or off the roof.
- In the end, I'd give myself a B+ for the finished product. I would have liked to have gotten the wire runs under the lounge better organized. If I had to do it again, it would redo all of the existing wiring. The AS run wires were quite messy. I did my best to clean them up, but could only do so much. The good thing is that the wiring is all hidden.
- Enjoy it! Overall, it was a very fun project. I learned a lot and feel proud of my accomplishment. There were a few times I got frustrated. Don't let it bother you. Simply step away for a bit and doing something else.
Overall it was a great project with a high rate of return for me. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate it a 5 for overall difficultly. '1' being a fuse changeout. '10’ being an engine rebuild. Nothing was that difficult; its just more of the effort required to run all of the wiring.
Attached are a few pictures. I don't have one of the roof, however it is the same that others have posted. 2 panels in the rear running parallel to the sides of the van (in place of the TV antenna), and 1 running perpendicular in front of the AC (where the old panel was). Also attached a a wiring diagram of the some of the associated components in the 2012 electrical system that may be useful to some.
Thanks again for all who post to this forum and are generous with their time, advice and opinions.
Attachment 237206Attachment 237207Attachment 237208Attachment 237209
2012 Interstate EXT
Via this forum and a few people who were generous with their advice and patience, I was able to complete the effort in 2 stages.
The first stage was to replace the original house batteries with LifeLine batteries. I bought 2 GPL-4CT 6 Volt batteries from Mark @ Centex (512.308.9002 Official Lifeline and Sun Xtender Battery Dealer Distributor). They provide me with 220 amp hours of power; about a 30% increase over my original batteries if I recall correctly. I was hoping to go with the larger 6CTs, but there is no way they would fit in my battery box. I basically had the shoehorn the 4CTs in. Mark provided great support and helped me gain a good understanding of battery life and recharging and helped me get all of my inverter and solar charger settings correct.
For the the second phase of the upgrade, I installed a 1000 watt Magnum inverter, 3 100 watt solar panels and the solar charger/remote to go along with them. The Magnum inverter was model MMS1012. The solar charger and remote were Blue Sky models. The Solar Controller is a Solar Boost 2512i(X)-HV along with an IPN ProRemote. I purchased everything from Dave at AM Solar. Welcome to AM Solar_Your RV Solar Specialists since 1987. (541) 726-1091. AM Solar sells the panels with an option to get them as a kit. The kit contains all of the parts you need to install the panels and controllers (wiring, heat shrink, mounting hardware, etc), along with detailed instructions. You just need to figure out where to mount everything and how/where to run all of the wiring. Dave and AM Solar team were very helpful when I called in a few times to ask for assistance. I have to say that when I received the shipments from them I was a bit overwhelmed at first; there were lots of parts and lots of wire. My total cost for all of the parts was $3461.
The most helpful of all with Lewster from this forum (Lew Farber). Talking things thru with him beforehand gave me the confidence that I could tackle this upgrade. A call or two during the install helped keep me on track.
I just returned from a quick trip and could not be more happy. We had the refrigerator on, watched a movie at night and had the furnace on as well as some lights. My battery was at 84% in the AM, much better than my previous batteries that would have been somewhere around 50%. Even better tho was that they were 100% charged with a few hours of morning sun. During the day now, I can run the inverter, the refrigerator and my communication amps (Internet and cell phone) and still sit at 100% power when it is sunny (which is most of the time in California)
The Phase 1 battery exchange took a solid day to do.
The Phase 2 inverter and solar upgrades took me just shy of 5 days.
I could of shaved off a day if it weren't for the battery box and TV antenna. The battery box is wedged in tight between the lounge framework and side of the van. It took a long time to get wires disconnected/reconnected there, as well as working around that area to run new wires. If doing it over, I would eliminate the battery box (and go with the larger battery size). The TV antenna was securely mounted and I fought its removal for awhile before I went commando on it and destructively removed it. What ever Airstream uses for sealant is very durable...
It also took a bit of time to figure out my existing wiring. I had a factory installed solar system (50 watt) that had to be removed. I had wiring that went to the Battery Isolation Manager that wasn't supposed to be there and I was leery about taking it away, as the new system does not hook up to it (not directly at least).
Running all the wiring is tedious, but not too bad. The worse area was getting the wiring in from the roof penetration and fished behind to the 'control center' in the upper bulkhead.
Lessons Learned and General Thoughts
- Patience is a virtue; especially when trying to fish all of the wires thru the various areas
- Have a box of band aids available. Every finger, as well as the back of both of my hands, bled at some point during the install. There are sharp corners, wires, etc in all of those blind spots where you are poking your hands and fishing wiring
- A saying we have at work is very applicable here. 'Plan the work and work the plan'. In other words, think thru the work that you are going to doing and line up everything that you need to perform it (tools, ladder, drawings parts, etc). Then do the work that you had planned. I'm a little OCD and would sometimes get distracted by other things that I found would need addressed
- Safety. It goes without saying that there are some 'dangers' involved. The AC/DC voltages and amps are sufficient to mess you up a bit, as well as do some damage to your rigs components. Make sure you disconnect everything and ensure nothing is energized prior to sticking a wreck on the electrical connections. Roof access isn't bad, but respect the height. It's tight up on the roof now with 3 panels, AC, vents, etc. Don't do foolish things to get on or off the roof.
- In the end, I'd give myself a B+ for the finished product. I would have liked to have gotten the wire runs under the lounge better organized. If I had to do it again, it would redo all of the existing wiring. The AS run wires were quite messy. I did my best to clean them up, but could only do so much. The good thing is that the wiring is all hidden.
- Enjoy it! Overall, it was a very fun project. I learned a lot and feel proud of my accomplishment. There were a few times I got frustrated. Don't let it bother you. Simply step away for a bit and doing something else.
Overall it was a great project with a high rate of return for me. On a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate it a 5 for overall difficultly. '1' being a fuse changeout. '10’ being an engine rebuild. Nothing was that difficult; its just more of the effort required to run all of the wiring.
Attached are a few pictures. I don't have one of the roof, however it is the same that others have posted. 2 panels in the rear running parallel to the sides of the van (in place of the TV antenna), and 1 running perpendicular in front of the AC (where the old panel was). Also attached a a wiring diagram of the some of the associated components in the 2012 electrical system that may be useful to some.
Thanks again for all who post to this forum and are generous with their time, advice and opinions.
Attachment 237206Attachment 237207Attachment 237208Attachment 237209
2012 Interstate EXT
Rock Guards for 1976 Airstream
Title: Add New - Airstream Trailer Classifieds - Airstream Trailers For Sale
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for front Rock Guards for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1DR2HnX
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for front Rock Guards for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1DR2HnX
Rock Guards for 1976 Airstream
Title: Add New - Airstream Trailer Classifieds - Airstream Trailers For Sale
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for front Rock Guards for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1z7DObZ
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for front Rock Guards for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1z7DObZ
Refrigerator
Title: Add New - Airstream Trailer Classifieds - Airstream Trailers For Sale
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for a newer refrigerator for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1DR2FMU
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Looking for a newer refrigerator for our 1976 Airstream.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1DR2FMU
Ram Eco diesal vs. F-150 3.5 Eco-boost
I have been looking at the Ram Eco for sometime and like what I see so far. I looked at F-150s but spent time on the V-8. I now see that the big 6 tows more and also has good reviews. I am reading the negatives on both. The Eco seems to be having more than normal problems with the engine. The Ford as I read reports does not get anywhere near the mileage Ford says it does. One report says 8 MPG when towing a 6k pound trailer. Don't want to make a mistake. Will be towing about 7k pounds.
Repair after a blowout
Blow out on left side - (single axle) did not take out the wiring or the gas line, but I would like to repair the pan to keep mud & critters from getting into the space between the pan & the flooring...Any suggestions other than an RV dealer?
IOTA Converter Trips Breaker; Not Sure Where to Start
Hi folks,
I recently bought a `78 Argosy 30. There are a couple of significant issues that I'm working through with the first being the battery converter.
The previous owner replaced the system, using an IOTA DLS-55. While doing it, they ran a separate 30amp out the back.
The trouble is, I can't plug the converter directly into the 120v system within the Airstream. It flips the breaker immediately, and I can't figure out the order in which to troubleshoot this. Now, I have to keep switching the two plugs, which drains the battery 100%, and has now resulted in a nearly dead battery.
I'm not sure where to start with this one. I'm trying to tackle this logically, troubleshooting one component at a time, but I'm not sure where to start on.
The only other issues with the electrical are: the hot water heater (not original) blows a fuse when I try and use the electric power (works fine on LP); the fridge flips the breaker immediately when on electric (works fine on LP).
Any suggestions or suggestions on first troubleshooting steps? Thanks!
I recently bought a `78 Argosy 30. There are a couple of significant issues that I'm working through with the first being the battery converter.
The previous owner replaced the system, using an IOTA DLS-55. While doing it, they ran a separate 30amp out the back.
The trouble is, I can't plug the converter directly into the 120v system within the Airstream. It flips the breaker immediately, and I can't figure out the order in which to troubleshoot this. Now, I have to keep switching the two plugs, which drains the battery 100%, and has now resulted in a nearly dead battery.
I'm not sure where to start with this one. I'm trying to tackle this logically, troubleshooting one component at a time, but I'm not sure where to start on.
The only other issues with the electrical are: the hot water heater (not original) blows a fuse when I try and use the electric power (works fine on LP); the fridge flips the breaker immediately when on electric (works fine on LP).
Any suggestions or suggestions on first troubleshooting steps? Thanks!
34' or ???
We're discussing the possibility of going with an Airstream instead of our Foretravel, and the recent post on an older thread (34' vs 30' or 32') raised some questions. Perhaps someone would be kind enough to answer some of our questions. I'll be in the chat room again this evening after supper, should some of you wish to get a discussion going there.
1. I didn't know that Airstream HAD a 32' coach. What years was that available?
2. I've seen places where one coach is called a 30' and another one, with a slightly different floor plan, is called a 31' but the specs show that they are, in fact, exactly the same length. How often is this the case?
3. I've read a few comments about the tire scrubbing with the triple axle 34' coaches. How much of an issue is that in real life? I realize that some people get into tighter places than others, and that will make a difference, but I'd like to hear from a couple of people who have actually had 34' coaches and can give first-hand reports.
To provide some perspective, we're full-timers currently in a 40' MH with no slides. We understand that even a 34' Airstream will be somewhat smaller than what we have, and we're okay with that. A 30' coach will be quite a bit smaller, though, and that may be an issue.
As I said, I'll be in the chat room after I finish the dishes.
1. I didn't know that Airstream HAD a 32' coach. What years was that available?
2. I've seen places where one coach is called a 30' and another one, with a slightly different floor plan, is called a 31' but the specs show that they are, in fact, exactly the same length. How often is this the case?
3. I've read a few comments about the tire scrubbing with the triple axle 34' coaches. How much of an issue is that in real life? I realize that some people get into tighter places than others, and that will make a difference, but I'd like to hear from a couple of people who have actually had 34' coaches and can give first-hand reports.
To provide some perspective, we're full-timers currently in a 40' MH with no slides. We understand that even a 34' Airstream will be somewhat smaller than what we have, and we're okay with that. A 30' coach will be quite a bit smaller, though, and that may be an issue.
As I said, I'll be in the chat room after I finish the dishes.
SF Curbed: Couple who traded condo for AS
Airstream recently tweeted and Facebooked an interesting article about a couple who traded their condo for an Airstream. We loved the article, but a key question remains: Who did they use for their interior mods? They look really great!
If you know, please do tell, as we'd like to look into doing the same thing to the living area in Rocinante.
Thanks!
Meet the Tech Couple Who Traded Their Condo for an Airstream - This Could Be You - Curbed SF
If you know, please do tell, as we'd like to look into doing the same thing to the living area in Rocinante.
Thanks!
Meet the Tech Couple Who Traded Their Condo for an Airstream - This Could Be You - Curbed SF
Battery Converter Flips Breaker
Hi folks! I apologize for starting this fairly broad, but I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting.
I picked up `78 Argosy 30 a few months ago. It's been a great temporary home while my wife and I build a house, but there is this one little problem that's bugging me (well, one main one).
The previous owner replaced the inverter with an IOTA DLS-55 and put in a new battery. They also ran another hookup out the back that is used exclusively for the inverter (the inverter is plugged directly to this extension).
If I plug the inverter directly into the 120v outlets in the Argosy, it immediately flips the breaker. Separately, the 120 hookup works fine and the inverter hookup works fine, but I cant get them workin right together.
Where should I go first to troubleshoot? I'm comfortable working with electricity, but I've never tackled a 12v + 120v system like is in an RV. Should I unplug everything non-essential (water heater, fridge, outlets if possible) and work my way back in?
If it's important, the water heater (not original) wont work on electric either -- it blows a fuse in the 12v fuse box. The refrigerator throws the breaker as well, and I've already unhooked that to no effect.
Thanks!
I picked up `78 Argosy 30 a few months ago. It's been a great temporary home while my wife and I build a house, but there is this one little problem that's bugging me (well, one main one).
The previous owner replaced the inverter with an IOTA DLS-55 and put in a new battery. They also ran another hookup out the back that is used exclusively for the inverter (the inverter is plugged directly to this extension).
If I plug the inverter directly into the 120v outlets in the Argosy, it immediately flips the breaker. Separately, the 120 hookup works fine and the inverter hookup works fine, but I cant get them workin right together.
Where should I go first to troubleshoot? I'm comfortable working with electricity, but I've never tackled a 12v + 120v system like is in an RV. Should I unplug everything non-essential (water heater, fridge, outlets if possible) and work my way back in?
If it's important, the water heater (not original) wont work on electric either -- it blows a fuse in the 12v fuse box. The refrigerator throws the breaker as well, and I've already unhooked that to no effect.
Thanks!
1978 Airstream Excella 500 31 - New Jersey
Title: 1978 Airstream Excella 500 31 - New Jersey
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Our father's Airstream that we have enjoyed since we purchased it in California in 1988. Lots of good memories! Has been sitting in our back yard for the past 10 years. Requires some exterior repair but lots of restoration must be performed inside. Complete with all parts including the 2 gas bottles. Can be towed out anytime. VIN is "E31A8S1109". Current license plate is New Jersey.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1qbqdez
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Our father's Airstream that we have enjoyed since we purchased it in California in 1988. Lots of good memories! Has been sitting in our back yard for the past 10 years. Requires some exterior repair but lots of restoration must be performed inside. Complete with all parts including the 2 gas bottles. Can be towed out anytime. VIN is "E31A8S1109". Current license plate is New Jersey.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1qbqdez
Need a Tow Vehicle for a 27FB Flying Cloud
I am purchasing a 2009 Flying Cloud 27FB. I am planning on purchasing a vehicle to tow this trailer.
I need suggestions on the size of pick up needed to tow this trailer. I am new to the airstream world. My wife and I used to own a pop-up when are kids were little. When they became teenagers camping seemed to take a back seat to their activities so we sold our pop-up. The kids are grown now and I'm retired. My wife will retire in a year or so and we are looking to travel and see America.
I purposely decided to buy the trailer first and the tow vehicle 2nd.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
I need suggestions on the size of pick up needed to tow this trailer. I am new to the airstream world. My wife and I used to own a pop-up when are kids were little. When they became teenagers camping seemed to take a back seat to their activities so we sold our pop-up. The kids are grown now and I'm retired. My wife will retire in a year or so and we are looking to travel and see America.
I purposely decided to buy the trailer first and the tow vehicle 2nd.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
Hail Damage question
I've seen a bunch of hail damage photos of vintage Airstreams on various forums. My wife & I have a newer Airstream (2015 Flying Cloud).
Does anyone know if newer Airstreams are anymore hail-damage resistant than earlier vintage models? They appear to be made of different type aluminum (non-shiny).
I live in Colorado which is a hail risk every Spring!
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Does anyone know if newer Airstreams are anymore hail-damage resistant than earlier vintage models? They appear to be made of different type aluminum (non-shiny).
I live in Colorado which is a hail risk every Spring!
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Changing surface mount hinge to euro-style
Airstream cabinet experts,
Has anybody changed out the traditional style surface mount old school hinges found on the Classics to the new Euro-Style hidden hinges? We just bought an '07 25' Classic Limited with the hickory interior. I would love to change out all the hinges and door/drawer hardware to something more exciting. Your thoughts and ideas would be appreciated!
Juergen
Has anybody changed out the traditional style surface mount old school hinges found on the Classics to the new Euro-Style hidden hinges? We just bought an '07 25' Classic Limited with the hickory interior. I would love to change out all the hinges and door/drawer hardware to something more exciting. Your thoughts and ideas would be appreciated!
Juergen
2005 Airstream Safari 25 - Washington
Title: 2005 Airstream Safari 25 - Washington
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
25 foot 2005 Safari Airstream travel trailer.Fully self- contained. Electric aircondition/heating. Electric /propane refrigerator/ freezer. Propane stovetop/oven,microwave standup/sit down shower.sleeps 6.weight approximate 6000.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1lsngTU
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
25 foot 2005 Safari Airstream travel trailer.Fully self- contained. Electric aircondition/heating. Electric /propane refrigerator/ freezer. Propane stovetop/oven,microwave standup/sit down shower.sleeps 6.weight approximate 6000.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1lsngTU
2011 Airstream International 28 - Colorado
Title: 2011 Airstream International 28 - Colorado
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Beautiful 28 foot International Serenity FB Airstream trailer in great condition! This trailer is loved! New ten ply tires (less than 1000 miles), bike rack, 300 watts of solar panels, 1000 watt power inverter, Hensley Arrow hitch, three new 12 volt batteries, bedroom and dining room flat screen televisions with DVD players, and LED lighting throughout. You can live off grid in this trailer for several weeks without a recharge! The exterior has two minor battle scars otherwise exterior and interior are perfect.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1JvEkEd
I just posted a new ad on Airstream Classifieds.
Beautiful 28 foot International Serenity FB Airstream trailer in great condition! This trailer is loved! New ten ply tires (less than 1000 miles), bike rack, 300 watts of solar panels, 1000 watt power inverter, Hensley Arrow hitch, three new 12 volt batteries, bedroom and dining room flat screen televisions with DVD players, and LED lighting throughout. You can live off grid in this trailer for several weeks without a recharge! The exterior has two minor battle scars otherwise exterior and interior are perfect.
You can contact us by filling in the form on the right hand column of the ad listing:
http://ift.tt/1JvEkEd
Surge Protector Levitron
One of the frustrating decisions which must be made for a newbie to the RV'ing world is surge protection devices.
RV parks are notorious for renegade electrical service and the RV stores all sell Surge Protectors to plug into the CG pedestal, then accept the power-cord from the RV. These are expensive, in the several hundred dollar range for the better ones, and the cheaper ones are $100 or so and do not provide any meaningful indications they are doing their jobs.
Plus, they are susceptible to theft while the owner is away from the coach.
The hard-wired, installed units are better from the theft side of things, but they still cost hundred$.
I have an electrical engineer BIL who assured me that the better solution is to use a "whole house" surge protector intended for the residence. A company which makes it is a well known U.S. company ...LEVITON.
I bought this unit at Home Depot for $50.
51110-SRG > Surge Protection > Power & Surge Protection > Connected Home > Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products
It's easy to install. It can be installed anywhere you can access the input power cord to your converter. It protects against much larger surge-jolts than typical RV types. It has four leads.
One goes to neutral, one goes to ground, one goes to a 120 volt leg, and the last goes to another 120 volt leg. (Being made for the residential market, it presumes 240 volt service entrance. The typical RV only uses ONE of the circuits...which gives you a FREE SPARE should the unit ever fail.)
There are two indicator lamps which show the unit is working, and if extinguished, that the unit has failed. (You can now use the other lead.)
Be certain to insulate the unused lead.
Best of all.... it carries equipment loss insurance for any onboard equipment damaged by surges the unit did not catch (up to $5,000 worth.)
And the thieves will have to steal the entire trailer to get it, which will be covered by your RV insurance!
What a deal!
RV parks are notorious for renegade electrical service and the RV stores all sell Surge Protectors to plug into the CG pedestal, then accept the power-cord from the RV. These are expensive, in the several hundred dollar range for the better ones, and the cheaper ones are $100 or so and do not provide any meaningful indications they are doing their jobs.
Plus, they are susceptible to theft while the owner is away from the coach.
The hard-wired, installed units are better from the theft side of things, but they still cost hundred$.
I have an electrical engineer BIL who assured me that the better solution is to use a "whole house" surge protector intended for the residence. A company which makes it is a well known U.S. company ...LEVITON.
I bought this unit at Home Depot for $50.
51110-SRG > Surge Protection > Power & Surge Protection > Connected Home > Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products
It's easy to install. It can be installed anywhere you can access the input power cord to your converter. It protects against much larger surge-jolts than typical RV types. It has four leads.
One goes to neutral, one goes to ground, one goes to a 120 volt leg, and the last goes to another 120 volt leg. (Being made for the residential market, it presumes 240 volt service entrance. The typical RV only uses ONE of the circuits...which gives you a FREE SPARE should the unit ever fail.)
There are two indicator lamps which show the unit is working, and if extinguished, that the unit has failed. (You can now use the other lead.)
Be certain to insulate the unused lead.
Best of all.... it carries equipment loss insurance for any onboard equipment damaged by surges the unit did not catch (up to $5,000 worth.)
And the thieves will have to steal the entire trailer to get it, which will be covered by your RV insurance!
What a deal!
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